"Personally I recommend returning the battery and obtaining the correct one.
If you are insistent on doing this. I am counting 9 wires, not 8. The connector is a 9-pin type, 3 for ground, 3 for V+, SMC+ and SMC-, and one for system sense (center pin). The wires must be soldered together and the connections protected by heat shrink tubes. This will take away from their flexibility and may cause them not to sit correctly for the case to close properly. If you don't solder the wires and protect the connections with heat shrink tubes that may cause other problems.
The typical MBP battery connector pinout is:
1 +12V
2 +12V
3 +12V
4 SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SCL
5 SYS_DETECT_L
6 SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SDA
7 GND
8 GND
9 GND
Within reason I have given the information you requested. Batteries don't just die. Your battery is a little over a year old and should have plenty of life. It seems to me that this laptop may have other problems that cause you to believe your battery is dead. Did you confirm battery health with Coconut Battery or iStat? Has this laptop experienced liquid damage? Please tell us more about why you believe the battery is dead."
"I had the same/similar problem. My battery ""got pregnant"" and was pushing out to the touchpad. So I decided to replace it. Unfortunately I bough battery for newer version of MacBook Pro (15""). I was too lazy to return it and order new one, so I searched for another solution. I came across this thread where pinouts were written. After small research (or I should rather call it experimenting) I found a solution :-)
The above answer where you cut the fatter connector to fit is wrong. If you would look closely you will see that the + and - pins are reversed between these two connectors. On each connector there is a mark for + and -. So cutting it down wont help.
If you have both batteries, you need to disassemble them and exchange connectors between them. The control pins are on both connectors same. So while one connector has pins in this order
Be aware! Without proper tools (like soldering iron, etc) and at least some technical skills you wont get too far.
I exchanged connectors today. Battery got detected and has no problems with charging it. In case of any complications, I will write here again for more information :-) Good luck everyone!
Battery Information:
Model Information: Serial Number: D86138301HGDGDLAJ Manufacturer: SMP Device Name: bq20z451 Pack Lot Code: 0 PCB Lot Code: 0 Firmware Version: 406 Hardware Revision: 2 Cell Revision: 158 Charge Information: Charge Remaining (mAh): 6277 Fully Charged: Yes Charging: No Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 6277 Health Information: Cycle Count: 0 Condition: Normal Battery Installed: Yes Amperage (mA): -31 Voltage (mV): 12153"
"FYI - I used a razor blade knife to open a battery a while back, and if you cut the pouch the lithium ion is stored it will short and catch on fire making this green flame that will generate a lot of smoke that I assumed was toxic.
It took a long time to vent the house, and I immediately thought of putting it on the aluminum macbook's lid (do not panic, but be careful, have fire extinguisher handy, door unlocked or open, don't do this close to curtains, or anything flammable.
Maybe nothing happens, but if the screwdriver cuts all the way through the pouch you must be prepared and assume there will be a flame that might even produce toxic fumes.
Although this is dangerous, if you are like me, it is educational to watch youtube videos about lithium ion batteries in general, or just buy another battery and sell that one.
No matter how much a battery might cost, does not even come close to comparing to any harm to your health, and well being, as well as those who you live with.
So PLEASE BE CAREFUL AND I STRONGLY SUGGEST NOT TO TRY THIS. MCGuyver'ing with lithium ion (or many other dangerous chemicals) is very very dangerous."
"Its pretty simple. You need to open the shelf of a battery. You can do it only with some strong screwdriver and lot of force. You will need to destroy the package. Be sure to destroy the softer side of a package. That one on which the cable is sticked in. After you will finish you will end up with something like this (cable is already removed):
Then you use the soldering iron to remove the cable. You may want to use desoldering suction pump to clean the contacts. Otherwise it will start overheating very fast. It will also leave you with clean holes, so putting there exchanged cable will be much easier.
As you can see on a photo, the three control cables are marked. One has a grey strip on it, one has black strip on it and third one is clean. So be sure not to mix these three cables.
Be aware, if this will destroy your mac, I'm not the one responsible for it :-D Maybe even mine will burn up one day :-D But so far still no issues with my battery. Lucky me :-)"
